Pork Tenderloins, Ross' Grill, and Kitty's Cafe

My introduction to pork tenderloin sandwiches came at the long-gone Ross' Grill - a crowded little restaurant on the Baltimore side of the Muehlebach Hotel. They served platter-sized pork tenderloins there fried golden with a crisp grainy breading. The fried meat would overhang the sides of a typical hamburger bun by 2 or 3 inches on all sides, and was served with a paper cup of mayo flavored with a touch of horseradish.

I have no idea if Ross's served any sides; the sandwich itself was more than any reasonable person should have eaten. Anything more might have killed me. I don't know whether they had any other sandwiches on the menu, either; that would be like ordering something other than fried chicken at Stroud's, or not having chili at Dixon's. People probably did it, but I didn't.

The Ross' tenderloin has served as the Platonic form for tenderloins in my life. Greasy, huge, thick with breading, and not particularly spicy - a fried tenderloin in the Ross' tradition is an occasional craving, a masochistic challenge, or a masculine assertion that doctors aren't the boss of me. You can find similar (though inferior) versions in truck stops and greasy spoons throughout the Midwest.

But Kitty's Cafe, on East 31st Street, offers something different.


Rather than one massive tenderloin, Kitty's serves three smaller pieces, stacked on a bun. Rather than thick breading, Kitty's tenderloins are covered with a light batter reminiscent of tempura, and crispy as a potato chip. Rather than bland, Kitty's tenderloin sandwiches are bursting with chili sauce and raw onion (and we're not talking Vidalias here - Kitty's serves strong white onions in a coarse chop that make you and your office mates remember what onions were before they went acoustic).

While I didn't indulge yesterday, this is a sandwich with proportions that allow you to look at the side dishes. At Kitty's you have your choice of very good french fries or classical fried tater tots. Both come in generous portions, so splitting an order is the way to go. And, speaking of "to go", you should plan on eating your food elsewhere - a few stools offer waiting space for customers, not space for eating.

(Note/Confession: The photo is brazenly stolen from "The Making of a Foodie", who mentioned Kitty's in a nice write-up on “Sandwiches you need to get your hands on!” for Tastebud Magazine.)